I thought about that, but it is on a cemented post. So far all readings have been accurate compared to NWS data!
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Nice Heathkit station! Which console do you have? (1890/4000/5000)
Heathkit ID-4000. Have had it a few years now.
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Yes those are excellent! 2Hz update on wind is very nice.
I also have a Peet Brothers 2100 PRO weather station and the wind speed updates every 1/2 second on it as well. Awesome station too!
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nice anti-squirrel defense !
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Food for thought…
I have my Tempest and my Sky mounted close to each other, about 16’ apart.
I have the mounting poles just tied to my fence…not tight, but not loose either. The poles can wiggle or shift a bit I’m the breeze.
No false rain detected. Ever. For years.
My theory is that in an effort it make out mounts super-solid and adding various anti-vibration techniques, I think we are over compensating.
My 2 cents.
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I forget seeing your photo. If the rope cushions any sound vibrations from the fence and if the fence is quiet in strong wind then you probably have no sound being transferred into your pole. And what is the maximum wind strength?
The weatherflow rain calibrations are unique to every Sky and Tempest and their adjustments to your devices may be perfect for your mounts.
But another difference particular to every different location can be regarding if false rain is being filtered out by weatherflow due to your location recording low humidity or something in which case I guess the UDP messages might record false rain which the weatherflow brains cancels out. I guess your weatherbox is reading your UDP messages so you can probably confirm what is the strongest wind that you have recorded without UDP showing any rain? I would need to look back when I had my vibration reducing mount but I am guessing around 30 knots. Thinking about this I might create a topic…
Cheers Ian 
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My new design for roof-top mount with no roof penetrations. I had to get a new roof on my house and had to remove the existing installation. This new installation is a simpler design than shown in my previous post and relies only on the weight of the mounting structure to hold it in place. I used 2-in PVC with each length of PVC containing a length of #4 rebar and filled with concrete. The structure is mounted along the peak of the roof with two lengths of PVC mounted along the peak and two lengths of PVC draped over each side of the peak. The vertical portion of the structure is approximately 8 ft tall and is also filled with rebar and concrete. The entire structure weighs about 85 lb and is very rigid. I need this weight and rigidity because I live in an area that experiences hurricanes.
Materials list:
3 - 2" PVC tees
4 - 2" PVC caps
1 - 2" PVC coupling
1 - 2" to 1" PVC reducer
30 ft of 2" PVC
25 ft of #4 rebar
1.5 bags of cement sand mix
Flashing to place under each end sand the center to alleviate pressure on shingles.
Assembly:
- Cut 4 lengths of PVC to 5 ft long
- Glue 2" caps on one end of each
- Cut 4 pieces of rebar to a length that extends 1-1/4" longer than pipe/cap assembly.
- Mix up sand mix and pour into pipes. When pipe is about 3/4 full, add rebar. Stand pipes vertically against wall and let the concrete cure.
- After concrete cures overnight, glue PVC tee to two of the pipes. These two pipes will be the ones that drape over the slope of the roof. (The other two will run along the peak.)
- Glue the remaining tee to the vertical portion of pipe and cut to desired height (mine is 7 ft)
- On each end of the tee on the vertical portion, glue a short section of PVC into each end. (These two ends should be just long enough that they’ll bottom out in the adjoining tee when assembled on the roof.)
- Dry fit the vertical piece/tee with one of the pieces/tees that drape over the side. Use a level to get the vertical piece exactly vertical.
- Without moving the dry-fit parts, glue the other part that drapes over the opposite slope into place while watching that the vertical pipe is still vertical (I zip-tied a level in place on the vertical pipe to make it easier)
- Fit remaining parts in place and paint the desired color (note PVC gets brittle after long exposure in the sun so painting is recommended)
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After a month of temporarily positioning and re-positioning, I finally installed my Tempest in what I hope will be its final position.
For UK owners, Galvanised Tube Size B | Key Clamp Railing | Unlimited Cuts tubing fits the Tempest pole mount perfectly. It’s got a sturdy 3.25mm wall thickness too.
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10ft pole with some wedged in plastic tapered pipe from a domestic steamer because s’one recommended 1.5" [Edit; I later find a 1.25" pole was mentioned…doh!] for the pole but this turned out to be too wide. Strapped to the chimney with a 13" bracket with ratchets for nylon strapping
Updated; with what was mentioned above and shown with the TV aerial. As mentioned it fits very snug but is a rather weighty pole as I got it cut to 10’
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Well the time finally came. Unit performed quite well in normal conditions on the lower mount point, but heavy winds are almost always missed. Area units will record gusts of say 50mph but mine will come in at 15 or 20. Best I can figure, this was due to the proximity to the roofline, causing the unit to end up in the air turbulence zone and missing out on the fun data.
So I’ve moved it back up. 1" galvanized pipe with white taping to help it blend in. This elevated it 4’ above the roofline. You can still see the original platform sticking out to the left of the gable. Definitely not a fun install by myself, but got it done. Hoping to see some higher wind numbers!
If this doesn’t work (i.e. false rain readings) or the HOA decides to jump on me, then I’m back to the drawing board.
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TEMPEST at night courtesy of iPhone 13 Pro Max night mode!
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there is a plane flying through your tempest.
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or starlink … pearl of satellites
It was a plane. I saw it when the shutter was open which was 30 seconds. I wasn’t sure if it would pick it up and it certainly did!
or he hang his christmas lights a bit early 
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